How To Grow And Care For Alocasia Houseplants

If you’ve noticed a striking houseplant everywhere recently, you may be tempted to add it to your collection. Native to Southeast Asia, alocasia has been trending for the last few years for its dramatic heart-shaped leaves and stunning colors. Once difficult to find, several varieties such as ‘Polly’, ‘Silver Dragon’, and ‘Black Velvet’ are now readily available.

But before you take the plunge, you should know that the sometimes diva-like alocasia requires a little more TLC than low-maintenance favorites such as snake plants and pothos. “Alocasia tends to need more attention,” says Justin Hancock, horticulturist with Costa Farms. “Some Alocasia go dormant if it’s too cool, too dry, or the light levels are too low. It will drop leaves, causing you to think it’s dead.”

Once alocasia starts to go downhill, it happens fast. But the good news is that alocasia grows from a rhizome, a sort of underground stem, which means it may not really be dead even if things look pretty bad. Once they're dormant, they may rebound when conditions are ideal again, pushing out new growth within a month or two. That’s not something you can say about most houseplants. Note that all parts of the alocasio plant, including roots and flowers, are toxic to both people and pets and should be kept out of reach of anyone who might nibble on it.

Alocasia Care

Give alocasia plants as much bright, indirect light as possible, says Hancock. Even though they grow in shaded areas on the forest floor in their native environment, they need tons of light. If you don’t have a bright window, a grow light also works. But don’t put them in direct sunlight, which can fry their foliage. Also, keep them away from drafty windows and heat or air conditioning vents. Alocasia likes consistent temperatures and high humidity.

As is the case with most houseplants, overwatering can cause serious problems. If your plant starts to droop or rot, that's a sign you need to let the soil dry out more between waterings.

Light

Place your alocasia in or near a window for bright but indirect light. An east-facing window is often ideal because it catches morning light rather than the hot afternoon sun. A little bit of dappled sunlight in the morning is fine. If you decide to use a sunnier window, install a sheer curtain to filter the sunlight or place your plant a few feet from the window to reduce sun exposure. Alocasia doesn't do well in low-light situations, so use a grow light to supplement if needed.

Soil

Use a nutrient-rich, well-draining potting mix for alocasia. Find a potting mix specially formulated for alocasia or amend an all-purpose potting mix with orchid bark, perlite, or coco coir to improve drainage. These plants prefer slightly acidic soil.

Water

This is where things get tricky: Most alocasia plants don’t like to get too wet or too dry. Stick your finger in the soil and water when the top 2 inches of soil feels dry. If you’re in doubt, wait another few days and check again. Generally, a little too dry is better than a little too wet with these plants, says Hancock. The humidity in your home will affect how quickly alocasia dries out, so you really do have to check. In winter when the plants are dormant, you'll want to water slightly less frequently.

Temperature And Humidity

Though there are hardy elephant ears that can be grown in areas that experience frost, alocasia sold as houseplants must be kept in a frost-free environment and require mild temperatures. These plants thrive when the temperature is between 60° and 85° F. Avoid heating vents, drafts, and sudden swings in temperature. Alocasia do well in humid environments like bathrooms, but most are fine in other rooms as long as they are watered properly.

Fertilizer

During the growing season, feed your plant with a balanced, liquid houseplant fertilizer diluted to half-strength. Do so every four to six weeks, then stop in the fall and winter.

Alternatively, you can give them some granular time-release general-purpose fertilizer if you like. Slow-release fertilizer will last a few months so you won’t have to keep remembering to feed your plant, says Hancock.

Types Of Alocasia

Alocasia is categorized by size: Dwarf plants max out at about 24 inches tall, intermediate-sized plants at around 3 to 4 feet, and large varieties can reach up to 10 feet tall. The largest types typically are grown outdoors as landscape plants and also may go by the name ‘elephant ear’. A good first-time choice for indoors is the dwarf variety, A. x amazonica ‘Polly,’ because it’s commonly available and not too expensive. The shiny green 'Polly' has the characteristic shape and deep veining of African mask. Here are a few other beautiful and unique varieties:

• A. micholitziana 'Frydek': The soft, velvety green leaves have white veining. This striking plant can grow to 3 feet, though it typically stays smaller indoors.
• A. baginda 'Silver Dragon' and 'Dragon Scale': These have leathery, shiny, reptilian leaves in silver or dark green. Truly a statement plant, they grow up to 2 feet tall.
• A. sulawesi 'Promethus': The arrow-head shaped leaves of this mottled green alocasia have deep, rounded lobes like an oak. It can grow to 2 to 3 feet.
• 'Pink Dragon' or 'Pink Princess': Plants with this label can vary somewhat, but, in general, they have heart-shaped, shiny green leaves with deep veins and pink stems.
  

Pruning

Remove yellowing, damaged, or diseased foliage from plants. Use sharp, sterile pruners and cut at the base of the stem. Wear gloves so that you don't irritate your skin.

Some alocasia caretakers advocate for removing blooms as soon as they appear so that the plant puts its energy into producing more foliage. Others prefer to allow the foliage to die back first so the plants can complete their natural growth cycle.

Propagating Alocasia

Propagating alocasia by leaf cuttings is very difficult. If you'd like to create more plants, propagate by division. (Check first if your variety is patented, in which case it can't be propagated.) An ideal time would be when your plant is root-bound and ready to be repotted. Remove the plant from its pot, shake off the soil, and separate a clump with both leaves and roots. Replant at the same depth in fresh potting mix and keep the soil moist until your alocasia is established.

Potting And Repotting Alocasia

Alocasia plants like to be slightly root bound, so don't rush to repot your plant in a larger container. Repot when roots become visible in the drainage hole and when the plant is actively growing (spring or summer). Choose a pot with a drainage hole that is 1 or 2 inches wider and slightly deeper than the existing pot.

Remove your plant and inspect the roots, cutting away any diseased or rotting roots with sterile pruners. Loosen the roots a little before repotting. Place fresh potting mix in the bottom of the container, then set your plant so it will be at the same depth it was in its former home. Fill around the plant with fresh potting mix and water well. Wait three months before fertilizing the plant, or even longer if that brings you into the winter season.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

Alocasia can be afflicted by the usual houseplant pests: aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites. Gently wipe the leaves to remove pests and then spray with insecticidal soap.

These plants commonly experience root rot or leaf spots from overwatering. The soil should be slightly moist, not saturated and soggy, and the top 2 inches should be allowed to dry out between waterings. Remove any damaged foliage and adjust watering and light exposure as needed.

How To Get Alocasia To Bloom

Alocasia blooms consist of a white flower spike, or spadix, hooded by a greenish spathe. Most people prefer to grow alocasia for the foliage and aren't looking to make the plant bloom, but it can do so any time in good conditions. Alocasia typically bloom about once a year. You can remove the inflorescence immediately or enjoy it while it lasts, pruning off the flower once it starts to die back.

Common Problems With Alocasia

Alocasia can be fickle if you don't care for it properly. Overwatering is the most common problem. Here are a few other issues you may experience and how to handle them.

Yellow Leaves

Both over and under watering can lead to yellow, drooping leaves. Check soil moisture to see if your plant needs watering, or reduce watering if you have been overzealous.

Curling Leaves

Unfortunately, there are many potential causes of this problem, so you'll need to consider your houseplant's environment carefully. Leaves can curl from overly dry soil, cold exposure, low humidity, improper sun exposure, or over-fertilizing. Start by checking soil moisture and water if necessary. Then consider whether you need to move your plant away from a draft or direct sunlight. If your house is exceptionally dry, try placing your plant on a tray of wet pebbles to help increase humidity. Also check for any webbing or signs of pests, which can cause leaves to curl.

Brown Leaves

If the foliage is afflicted with brown patches, your plant may be scorching in the sun. Move the plant to a more protected location or install a sheer curtain to filter the light. Crispy edges or brown tips on leaves can also be a sign of low humidity.