A Christmastime Visit To The Biltmore Will Transport You To The Gilded Age

The shuttle to Biltmore House isn’t for the faint of heart. As we cruise through the vast estate in the North Carolina mountains, there are several sharp turns along a narrow dirt road that is far better suited for horse-drawn carriages than for the white bus in which we’re currently riding. Yet the butterflies swirling in my stomach aren’t due to fear but anticipation.

A few rows behind me sits a group of girlfriends who refuse to believe this is my first visit to Biltmore. They return every year to see the home in all its holiday finery. They’re sure that I’ll be doing the same soon enough. Then, through the shuttle window, the 175,000-square-foot French château-style mansion comes into view.

As I enter Biltmore House, the outside world floats away. On the pristine lawn, hundreds of tourists congregate, shuttles zoom in and out through the ornate gates, and the 780-foot-long facade beckons visitors through the doors. Inside, it’s every bit as grand as the exterior. Asheville’s unseasonably warm December weather and my own 21st-century concerns feel miles away from the Gilded Age winter wonderland surrounding me.

People flock to Biltmore Estate year-round. The 8,000-acre property features opulent gardens; a winery; shops; and several places to stay, including the 210-room inn. But the real gem here is Biltmore House, which is also the main draw at Christmas. This former residence of George Vanderbilt is immaculately preserved and attracts more than 1 million visitors annually, but this season is one of the best times to go. Not only are the decorations spectacular, but you also get to experience what holidays were once like for one of America’s wealthiest and most prominent families.

Looking Back

On Christmas Eve in 1895, Biltmore Estate’s substantial doors opened to guests for the first time when Vanderbilt welcomed 27 family members and a host of friends to celebrate the season. His new home wasn’t quite as grand as it appears today because it was still missing some of the finishing touches. 

While the magnate’s visitors stayed in extravagant suites, Vanderbilt moved into the Bachelors’ Wing since his own bedroom was still not ready. In any case, this would be the first of many over-the-top gatherings held at the house.

Biltmore curator of interpretation Lauren Henry is able to paint a picture of those first Christmases spent in Asheville by combining the accounts from various people in attendance. Here, the centerpiece was—and still is—an impressive 30- to 40-foot Fraser fir standing in the banquet hall. They covered it with lights and ornaments and stuck presents in the branches rather than just underneath the tree. The tradition of displaying this gigantic fir is the only element of Biltmore House’s early holiday decor that curators are certain of.

“To this day, I have no idea how they got the tree up to the banquet hall,” marvels Henry. “Doing it now with a whole team—it’s live streamed so that everyone can see—takes so many people and so much coordination. It makes you wonder, ‘How did they do it almost 130 years ago?’ But they did.”

That year, in addition to the opulent affair for friends and family, Vanderbilt started the tradition of throwing a party for the hundreds—now thousands—of employees working on the property. After George married Edith Vanderbilt in 1898, she quickly assumed hosting duties, even personally presenting all of her employees’ children with gifts.

“We have an oral history from a girl named Eugenia who was given paper dolls,” says Henry. “She told Mrs. Vanderbilt, ‘I don’t like paper dolls.’ She wanted one of the ornaments on the tree, so Mrs. Vanderbilt had one of the butlers take down all of the balls, and she passed them out to the children.”

Putting on the Ritz

During the holidays, there are two ways to experience Biltmore House—a daytime or an evening tour. Once the sun goes down, the property is lit with glowing candles, another touch that hearkens back to a bygone era. 

On a self-guided listening tour, I roam through each room, taking in the elaborate displays, which range from mantels draped with greenery, light-reflecting ribbons, and baubles to the more subtle touches like the miniature evergreen trees placed in George and Edith’s separate bedrooms. Live string music sets the mood as I peek behind the scenes into the living spaces and kitchen pantries, admire a set of original paintings by Monet, and venture into the cozy library—which today’s staff agrees was George’s favorite room, complete with 22,000 volumes and a not-so-secret passageway. It becomes clear to me why people return to the estate; there is just so much to see. 

In the dazzling banquet hall, the main tree is designed to resemble those used for Vanderbilt-era Christmases, but it is accompanied by modern adaptations and solutions. Floral manager Elizabeth Borchers says that to compensate for limited access to electrical outlets needed to illuminate the tree, the team craftily strings a power cord through a second-story window.

Biltmore’s team of designers also takes great care in preserving the homeowner’s brand of Gilded Age glamour. Usually, they select a theme and thoughtfully plan every inch to how they imagine the Vanderbilts preferred it. (The theme during my visit is “designer’s choice.”) Each room is informed by stories pulled from the Vanderbilt archives. The second-floor living hall speaks to Edith’s childhood Christmases, while the morning salon is centered around the historic ceiling drapery.

Under the watchful eye of Todd Roy, Biltmore’s conservatory horticulturist, the estate teems with hundreds of brilliant blooming poinsettias from nearby Shelby, North Carolina, as well as dozens of wreaths made with materials grown on-site. Any additional greenery and branches are cut and collected from across the vast property and incorporated into the decor. “That’s what really makes our arrangements stand apart,” says Borchers. “It’s what George would have done.”

Borchers and her team take great pride in being part of preserving memories and traditions, always carefully considering how the Vanderbilts themselves wanted their home to be. “The priority is authenticity,” she says, “and we take that very seriously.”

Planning Ahead

With this Biltmore holiday season in full swing until January 7, designers are already thinking of themes for 2024. In March, they’ll lay out all of the ornaments on the floor to take stock and reimagine next year’s possibilities. Then from there, the rooms will be divvied up among the designers who will get to work. They brainstorm, curate, and—come September—implement their ideas. Throughout the process, Biltmore doesn’t close to the public, so if you visit during the preseason, you can beat the crowds and also witness the transformation happening and the majestic trees being raised. Then, in November 2024, the age-old magic will roar to life all over again, just as the Vanderbilts would have wanted. 

Where To Stay

The Inn on Biltmore Estate: For the complete Christmas experience, the inn is the best place to be. This resort has earned its four-star designation with luxurious amenities, stunning views of the property, abundant decorations, and handy shuttles that take guests to Biltmore House and Antler Hill Village.

Village Hotel: Conveniently located in nearby Antler Hill Village, this charming stay is the most affordable option on the property. However, it always fills up fast for the holiday season, so secure your booking early.

Cottages on Biltmore Estate: Biltmore’s newest and most exclusive accommodation choices are private historic cottages that have been recently restored with full kitchens, living rooms, and multiple bedrooms to suit larger parties and families. 

Off- Property Options: If you decide to spend the night in the surrounding Asheville area rather than on the estate, you can purchase day tickets to Biltmore, which is a few miles from downtown. You’ll find a variety of lodging choices, ranging from bed-and-breakfasts to hotels to resorts. 

Where To Eat

Head to Antler Hill Village, and make a reservation at Bistro for European inspired fare cooked with estate-raised ingredients, go to Cedric’s Tavern (named after the Vanderbilts’ Saint Bernard) for classic pub eats, or visit The Smokehouse Food Truck for Carolina-style barbecue. Wash it all down with a swig from a bottle of regional favorite Cheerwine purchased from The Creamery next door. Finish things off by making s’mores at a nearby firepit.

What To Do

Book a revitalizing treatment at the spa, or sign up for outdoor excursions like a horse-drawn carriage ride, hiking, biking, or falconry (an educational seminar during which a veteran hawk trainer will teach you to feed birds of prey). Don’t miss out on a tasting of Biltmore wines or a trip to the verdant winter conservatory. 

Where To Shop

Regular Biltmore visitors know to look out for a Christmas pop-up that emerges every year in a new location. Also go to Antler Hill Village, where there are four different shops filled with souvenirs. Closer to the mansion, you’ll find stores showcasing toys, Gilded Age gifts, collectible books, garden accessories, and sweets to help you commemorate your unforgettable trip.