Gardening Ideas Outdoor Plants Perennial Plants How To Grow And Care For A Climbing Hydrangea First it sleeps, then it creeps, then it leaps. This old gardener's saying perfectly describes this flowering vine. By Patricia S York Patricia S York Patricia was the assistant food editor at Southern Living and worked with the Southern Living food team from 2006-2022. She contributed to articles about food, gardening, and pets. Southern Living's editorial guidelines Updated on May 10, 2024 In This Article View All In This Article Plant Attributes Hydrangea Care Types Pruning Propagating Growing From Seed Overwintering Pests & Diseases How To Get Blooms Frequently Asked Questions Close Photo: bkkm/Getty Images The hydrangea is the undisputed Queen of the Southern Garden. Whether you grow a big leaf hydrangea, panicle hydrangea, smooth hydrangea, or oakleaf variety, a well-tended hydrangea will give you lots and lots of gorgeous blooms throughout the summer. A bank of hydrangea bushes in full bloom is certainly a site to behold, but consider looking upward to the climbing hydrangea, a flowering vine that produces fragrant, lace-cap white flower clusters. Using fine aerial rootlets on its branches, a climbing hydrangea will scale walls and other structures, sometimes reaching 50 feet tall or more at maturity. Early spring is the best time to plant them. Don't expect dramatic growth right away; climbing hydrangeas can take three to five years to really get going. All hydrangeas are toxic to people and pets, so keep the base of your regal flowering vine out of the reach of curious children and animals. Plant Attributes Common Name Climbing hydrangea Botanical Name Hydrangea anomala Family Hydrangeaceae Plant Type Perennial, vine Mature Size 60 ft. long, 6 ft. wide Sun Exposure Partial, dappled, full shade Soil Type Organically rich, well-drained, moist Soil pH Acidic to neutral (5.5-7.0) Bloom Time Spring, summer Flower Color White Hardiness Zones 4-8 (USDA) Native Area Asia Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to horses and pets Hydrangea Care Climbing hydrangea vines can scale tree trunks, sturdy trellises, arbors, and fences. The vines become large and heavy over time so be sure that the host structure can support the weight of the vines and the structure is not something (like the side of a clapboard house) that may rot or need replacing or repainting. The plants can also be pruned to maintain a shrub-like form. Climbing hydrangea can also be used as ground cover, taking root where the suckers make contact with the ground and filling in the area. Here is one more reason to love climbing hydrangeas: They are salt-tolerant plants and are very popular in seaside communities. The vines commonly don't bloom until they are three to five years old, so just be patient. Plant your hydrangea in rich, well-drained soil and provide some protection from hot afternoon sun in the South. Light Climbing hydrangea is one of the few hardy flowering vines that tolerate shade. In hot climates, choose a location where the plant will get dappled sunlight or partial shade. In the cooler regions of the South, the vine can do well with lots of morning sunshine if adequately watered. Climbing hydrangeas that do get more sun tend to bloom better. Soil Climbing hydrangea needs a rich, moist, well-drained soil. If your soil needs improvement, mix in a generous amount of compost before planting. Apply a 3-inch layer of mulch to help retain water in the soil around the root zone and reduce weeds. Water As with other hydrangea plants, this species likes consistently moist soil. Place it where it will get watered about 1 inch weekly, or even more often in hot weather. An interesting side note about the word hydrangea: The Greek root hydra refers to water, and angeon comes from the Greek for "vessel." Temperature and Humidity This plant is hardy in USDA plant zones 4 through 8. Climbing hydrangea does well in temperate climates but may wilt in hot, humid conditions. It also can be damaged by sunburn, so it may not be the best choice if you experience scorching summers. Fertilizer Fertilize this plant in the spring before the leaves begin to bud. Granular fertilizer with a high phosphorous count will encourage beautiful blooms. Fertilize again after the flowers have bloomed in the summer. Types Of Climbing Hydrangea Most nurseries sell climbing hydrangeas under the species name only. 'Miranda' has green variegated foliage with creamy yellow margins. Some mail-order nurseries sell ‘Skylands Giant', a selection from the New Jersey Botanical Garden in Skylands with extra-large blooms. Pruning As stated above, newly planted climbing hydrangea vines are slow to grow and slow to bloom. You probably won't need to prune at all for the first few years. Once the plants are established, however, climbing hydrangea tends to grow vigorously. You can prune the vines to keep them under control, but wait until summer after the flowers have finished blooming. Also, remove dead or damaged vines at that time. Propagating Climbing Hydrangea Climbing hydrangea can be propagated by cuttings. Do this in the spring, when the plant has sent out new, tender growth, by following these steps: Fill a seed tray with light potting soil or seed-starting soil and moisten the soil. Sanitize a sharp pair of pruning shears with alcohol.Select a green stem and cut sections that are 3 to 5 inches long, taking care to keep track of which end was pointing up.Remove all but the top pair of leaves from each cutting.Dip each cutting in rooting powder, then stick the bottom of the stem an inch or two into the soil of your seed tray.Cover the tray with a clear plastic dome or piece of plastic and place in a warm spot in indirect light.Mist regularly with a spray bottle to keep the soil from drying out. The cuttings should root in about a month, at which point you can transfer them to individual pots and gradually expose them to the outdoors. Hydrangeas can also be propagated by layering in the spring, as long as you have a young, healthy branch that is close to the ground: Gently pull a green stem down to the ground. Take a sharp, clean knife and nick the bark on the bottom of the stem where it meets the soil. Remove any leaves in the area where the stem is in contact with the soil.Use a hooked wire or landscape staple to pin the spot that you nicked tightly to the soil.Place a brick or stone on top of the stem. Keep an eye on soil moisture and water when dry.Once the stem has rooted, you can cut it from the mother plant just behind the roots. Leave the severed stem undisturbed for a week before digging it up and transplanting it. How to Grow Climbing Hydrangea From Seed To grow a climbing hydrangea from seed, use mature seed pods collected in fall. Fill a pot with moist soil and place the seeds on top of the soil. Cover the pot with a clear plastic dome or plastic wrap to help maintain moisture and place it in a warm room with indirect light. The seeds should germinate in about two weeks. Remove the plastic and water regularly to keep the soil moist. You can transplant in spring once temperatures begin to warm. Overwintering Before freezing temperatures arrive, give your moisture-loving hydrangea a good watering. Add a thick layer of mulch to conserve warmth and moisture. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Climbing hydrangea has no serious pest or disease problems, so you can breathe a sign of relief. However, deer do enjoy snacking on hydrangea flowers that are within their reach. How To Get Climbing Hydrangea To Bloom Climbing hydrangeas can take a few seasons or even a few years to get settled in and begin blooming in late spring or summer. Be careful not to prune the vine in fall, winter, or spring, as you may remove flower buds. Your hydrangea will set buds only if there are six weeks of temperatures below 65 degrees. A sudden frost can damage flower buds that are about to open. If your hydrangea is on the verge of blooming, cover it with a blanket or tarp until the cold snap passes. Frequently Asked Questions Does climbing hydrangea need a trellis? Climbing hydrangea vines cling with aerial roots, allowing them to attach to brick, stone, or wood without a trellis. However, you may want to give the plant a sturdy trellis to keep it off your home or trees and help the vines grow in the best direction. What does climbing hydrangea look like in winter? Climbing hydrangea is deciduous and will lose its leaves in winter. The vines have attractive, cinnamon-brown, exfoliating bark. What's the difference between climbing hydrangea and Japanese hydrangea vine? Schizophragma hydrangeoides is a related plant recently reclassified as a hydrangea. It may be labeled as Japanese hydrangea vine or false hydrangea. Both Japanese hydrangea vine and the climbing hydrangea bear a "lace cap" of tiny flowers surrounded by showier petals. False hydrangea has single, ovate petals while climbing hydrangea has clusters of four or five petals. Japanese hydrangea vine may have pink or white petals. Was this page helpful? Thanks for your feedback! Tell us why! Other Submit Sources Southern Living is committed to using high-quality, reputable sources to support the facts in our articles. Read our editorial guidelines to learn more about how we fact check our content for accuracy. North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Hydrangea anomala. ASPCA. Hydrangea. Related Articles How To Grow And Care For Panicle Hydrangeas How Long Does It Take To Turn A Pink Hydrangea Blue? We Hate To Tell You This, But You're Watering Your Hydrangeas Wrong This $4 Pantry Item Can Help Keep Your Cut Hydrangeas Fresh For Weeks How To Grow And Care For 'Little Lime' Hydrangeas Why Are Hydrangeas Also Called Hortensias? 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