Three Sisters Succotash

Summer comes earlier in the South than in the North, where I normally roost. I wait patiently for the arrival of tomatoes, corn picked so recently that it's still sweet, and plenty of beans—both shelled and in their pods. When I finally see all three of these ingredients at my farmers' market, the first thing I make is my favorite side: succotash.

The dish is traditionally prepared from the bounty of the "Three Sisters," a name for an ingenious way of growing things that’s a testimony to the wisdom of Native American agriculture. In this method, corn, beans, and squash are planted together and live in symbiotic harmony. The corn stalks provide poles to support the squash and trailing beans (which add beneficial nutrients to the soil), and the broad squash leaves shade the young plants from the sun. When they all ripen, the whole harvest goes into a skillet. Even the word "succotash" reminds us of the dish’s Native American origins; it comes from the Narragansett term "sahquttahhash," which means "broken corn kernels."

Over time, the side came to be associated with the South, though there is no clear answer as to why. I suspect it’s because the region’s fresh produce was irresistible to cooks, and this was a way to feature those summer standbys.

Most of these succotash recipes include corn, tomatoes, okra, and field peas or lima beans. The version below combines Southern and Native American elements—with yellow squash, corn, and pole beans, plus tomatoes and pieces of thick-cut bacon. Kernels of fresh corn add color and provide a sweet counterpoint to the light acidity of the tomatoes, and the green beans supply a welcome tender-crisp texture. A hot cast-iron skillet will blister the vegetables a bit; let them cook for a while with minimal stirring to give them a nice char.

This flavorful mix pairs perfectly with fried chicken or fish—or just about any other main dish—and brings the abundance of the season straight to the table.

Editorial contributions by Dr. Jessica B. Harris.